The nice weather we’ve enjoyed the past few days has tried to be deceptive, but we in Utah aren’t fooled. Winter is on its way and may whistle in with a vengeance. We will hole up in our homes, turn up the heat and perhaps snuggle by fireplaces to escape the ravages of the winter. Our plants won’t have such a cushy existence. Fortunately, nature has provided the hardier ones with the means to survive. Some, like the evergreens, will weather the storms and show forth a green face toward spring. Other perennials will make it by shutting down for the winter in a dormant state.

Those will ensure survival unless the cold weather gets totally out of control, but it doesn’t ensure against damage from winds and snow. Some of the less hardy perennials may need a boost to deal with frosty weather as well.

Since water is always at a premium in our desert climate and most of it comes from snow, we have to hope that snow will come this winter. Some of us may even enjoy the looks of the light fluffy flakes as they gently waft down to cover the drab grays of winter. Those flakes are replete with water and if enough come at once, they become heavy as they accumulate. It is seldom a problem on deciduous trees and shrubs, but it can cause problems for roses and some kinds of evergreens.

One of the hardest hit evergreens is arborvitae. Those soft, flimsy upright bushy branches make perfect snow catchers and they bend easily with the weight of the snow. When snow falls into them, it spreads them out, spoiling the shape of the shrub. The problem is particularly amplified if the shrub is planted next to a roof where snow slides off onto it. The branches may remain distended creating a rather ungainly look.

Prevent this problem by wrapping the branches of such shrubs to hold them up despite the onslaught of the snow. Start at the bottom of the shrub and wind in a spiral to the top using strips of burlap, heavy twine, reinforced paper or plastic strips. The objective is to hold branches upright, not to encase the bush, so leave some green showing between wraps. You should find a suitable product at the nursery or garden center.

Your roses may suffer if the snow gets heavy. Unlike the pine trees that are streamlined for snow, rose bushes get wider at the top with a spread of canes atop each single cane - looking something like candelabras. These are a perfect place for snow to accumulate. Cut off these ‘candelabra’ reducing the bushes to about 3 to 4 feet. Leave them at that height for the winter. The tall canes will probably suffer a little die-back from freezing over the winter. Reduce their height to compensate next spring.

The sheer cold of winter also carries its hazards. Many have the mistaken idea that it is just the bitter cold that causes winter damage. Actually, the freeze/thaw cycle typical to Tooele County’s winters creates most of our problems. Winter nights can be extremely cold but if the sun shines even during a cold day, its rays raise the temperature of the bark on south and west sides of woody plants slightly breaking dormancy. As soon as the sun drops behind the mountains, however, the temperature of the bark plummets and freezes quickly.

On woody plants, such as young trees and others with thin, tender bark, this can damage the cambium or living layer just beneath the bark. Most of our winter protection efforts should be directed not to keeping our plants warm, but keeping them consistently cold so they don’t suffer freeze/thaw damage.

Young fruit trees are susceptible to the ‘southwest winter injury’ caused by winter freeze/thaw cycles. The most common symptom of southwest winter injury shows up in the spring as splits in the bark on the south and west portions of the tree.

Most small trees should be protected for the first two or three years after they are planted. Stone fruits like peaches, nectarines, cherries and apricots are particularly susceptible to winter damage. There are two popular methods for protecting these and thin-barked ornamentals like birch, maple, ash, and flowering stone fruits which are also subject to stress.

Wrap tree trunks up to the bottom branches with light or white waterproof tree wrap. The wrap should be as light as possible to reflect heat from the sun. Wrap the trunk from bottom to top so that overlapping portions will shed water rather than funneling it into the trunk.

The other protection is to paint the south side of the trunks using exterior white latex paint diluted with an equal part of water. Do not use oil-based paint. This method is popular among orchardists because it is faster and easier than wrapping individual trees and doesn’t provide a haven for insects.

Clean up infected materials and dead wood, which may be harboring insects or encourage them next spring. Fall pruning is not recommended, but removing dead branches is an acceptable fall job. Dead wood is more likely to break under the weight of snow, and may harbor disease and insects that infect the rest of the tree. If you’re in doubt as to which wood is dead, try the ‘snap test.’ Bend twigs on the branches. If they snap off, the wood is dead. If they are flexible and show a ring of green just under the bark, that is living wood.

Mulch trees with up to 4 inches of bark or other material at least 2 feet in radius from the trunk. Do not put mulch material right up against the trunk where it might promote insect damage or decay.

Roses require protection from winter as well. Although some will do well despite cold snaps, the roots on many will suffer from freeze/thaw cycles. After they have dropped their leaves and the weather gets colder, the roots need to be mulched. Wait until we have had enough very cold days to chill the ground thoroughly, and then pile leaves, compost or other mulch up around the base of the plant about a foot high.

As you prepare indoors for winter, don’t forget to prepare your plants outdoors for the weather as well.