by Diane Sagers

CORRESPONDENT

The snow last weekend was a quick reminder that winter follows autumn. It really didn't stick to the ground and the plants in our gardens survived the storm rather well. The snow was that sloppy-snowflakes-mixed-with-rain variety that doesn't necessarily spell really cold weather.

But anyone who lives here knows that we will get cold snaps like that in September and then move back into a very warm spell for a time before it begins to get cold. By the time October arrives, it is time to start getting ready to put your garden to bed for the winter. You still have time, so you can do the chores gradually as time permits.

Fall is the ideal time to spray morning glory (field bindweed) and other perennial weeds. In the autumn, these weeds metabolize nutrients from the leaves into the roots to get them ready to survive winter. As they do, they will metabolize glyphosate (Roundup or other products containing this herbicide) and broadleaf sprays such as 2,4-D, or trimec, to their roots along with the nutrients they are storing. Herbicides are much more effective at this time of year than at any other time. Mix Roundup and either trimec or 2,4-D together in the same sprayer for a strong, effective weed spray. Mix glyphosate sprays at the recommended strength into the same water.

Spray green, healthy weeds that are actively growing. The product will be better incorporated into the plant. Sickly weeds aren't metabolizing nutrients as actively so they won't be as susceptible to weed killer.

Don't waste your sprays on annual weeds now. The frost will get them soon if it hasn't already. Instead, pull and dispose of some of them to reduce the number of seeds available to grow next spring.

Many of us just can't seem to get past the idea that the lawn is just supposed to lay there and look good, with as little effort from us as possible. For the most part, lawns cooperate and do just that. Nevertheless, some fall care will help create the greenest, healthiest possible lawn next spring.

Lawns have had a pretty tough summer. Spruce them up to get ready for winter. Grass is a perennial plant with a thick root system that enables it to extract nutrients needed from the soil. Most of the nutrients lawns need are generally already in the soil. The exception is nitrogen, which needs to be added regularly to keep the grass growing green and strong. Get those nutrients into the soil where they will be available. Apply nitrogen when the weather gets cooler. The objective is not to green up the lawn now as it will soon become dormant. Nitrogen applied in the fall provides the roots with the nutrient and the grass will start to grow early in the season next year. Apply it when the air gets consistently chilly as the grass is ready to go dormant for the winter.

Avoid fertilizing lawn under trees because if you add nitrogen to trees now, it gives them a late boost that will delay their dormancy and could be harmful. As those trees prepare for winter, they will lose their leaves, dropping them all over the lawn. Clean up fallen leaves before winter because layers of leaves on the lawn keeps sunlight from reaching the grass so it gets smothered and dies out.

Lawns are not yet dormant, so keep mowing them until they do. You can ideally trim grass just a little shorter than the 2 1/2 to 3-inch height that is best for the summer. It's purely cosmetic. The lawn wouldn't suffer seriously if it's on the long side. It's just that it will continue to grow slowly for a while after the weather changes before it goes completely dormant. Next spring, it should emerge from under the snow looking a little tidier and it will green up sooner if it isn't too long.

When the weather is cool in the fall, treat lawns for perennial weeds. 2,4-D is a longtime favorite. Trimec is a mixture of 2,4-D and two other broadleaf weed killers. Together they are very effective for controlling weeds without damaging the lawn. If the weather is going to be above 80 degrees in the next few days, do not use these herbicides as they volatilize and damage surrounding broadleafed plants. You may want to wait until a hard frost kills your garden before using these herbicides.

Aeration is sometimes considered to be a spring chore, but it can be beneficial at any time. If your lawn is compacted or has a heavy layer of thatch, consider aerating the turf. The soil needs to be moist but avoid trying to aerate muddy lawns.

Mow the lawn one last time after those leaves are cleaned up. Often, closer mowing is recommended to avoid diseases, but in our area diseases seldom cause serious problems unless the turf is excessively long. Likewise, preventative fungicidal applications are not needed unless your turf has serious ongoing problems with lawn diseases.

Do not forget to get your sprinkler system ready for the winter. When you are finished irrigating (for many people that will be the day the irrigation companies turn off the water), turn off the water to the valves. Run the sprinkler clock through several cycles so each plunger opens and closes to expel water in the valves.

Sprinkler timers do not usually need special care so unless there are special instructions simply turn them to the inactive cycle for the winter. Turn off mechanical clocks to avoid excess wear on the components. Remove batteries so they do not rust or leak during the winter months.

Properly designed sprinkler systems have automatic drains installed to allow water to drain out of the pipes when the valves are off. As an extra safety precaution, some gardeners like to blow compressed air through the lines to force extra water out in case there is any in the lines or if the pipes have settled.