by Diane Sagers

CORRESPONDENT

The snows and frost in the past few days are decimating what is left of the tender annuals in area flower beds. Some of the more hardy annuals still live, while hardy fall perennials put on a delightful show.

Chrysanthemums are the most popular of these fall-blooming flowers. They seem to have waited patiently for their turn to show. All summer these plants have grown with little fanfare putting out green leaves and gaining strength. Finally, the days grew short enough (and the nights long enough) to stimulate the plants to bud and blossom. They are in their glory during the fall season. They bent under the weight of the little snow we got the other night, but sprung back to bathe the flower beds in shades of bronze, lavender, yellow and white for yet a little longer as the snow melts.

They are tough, but not tough enough to stay green all winter. Very cold winter weather will eventually turn them black. Since they are perennials, however, the roots will live in the ground through the winter, and next spring they will put out shoots and the cycle will resume.

Chrysanthemums are naturally fall blooming flowers. They are available as pot plants year round since growers use covers to create long-night conditions when the daylight lasts too long.

Chrysanthemums come in a wide range of colors, sizes and forms. Painted and Shasta Daisies are in the chrysanthemum family and are hardy to this area. Hardy chrysanthemums include pom pom, button pom, daisy-petaled, spoon-flowered, quill-flowered, anemone flowered and spider chrysanthemums. Then there are cascade mums which grow on five to six foot stems, and, of course, the best-known, large, football or standard chrysanthemums.

Mums are not a perennial to establish in the fall — they thrive best when planted in the spring. Although it is tempting to save potted mums purchased from a florist shop and to plant them outdoors, you will likely not be satisfied with the results. They are grown in very specific conditions in a greenhouse, where the day length can be adjusted artificially, and they are pruned and treated with growth regulators to keep their size aesthetically proportional to their pots. Planted in a natural environment they revert. Their blooms will probably not be the same size as in the pot and they are likely to grow very tall with weak, leggy stems. The time required from sprouting to blossom may be too long for Tooele County's short season and you may never see the blooms.

Spend the time and money on outdoor mums grown in a nursery — either mail order or local. These will return year after year for a repeat performance. Each plant has its own genetic response to day length, so while some will bloom early in September, others may not bloom until later. The catalog estimates on approximate bloom dates may not be entirely accurate at Tooele county's latitude, since shorter nights come later here than further north, and sooner than further south.

Some professional gardeners maintain their mums in pots for much of the season while they are in their green growing stage, then add them to flower beds late in the summer for a fall show.

After the frost blackens the mums this fall, cut the stalks off to reduce crown rot during the winter. Mulch the plants with leaves, straw or other weed-free organic matter. Pray for snow. Snow is a natural insulator which will help them survive during deep winter. Some gardeners even dig mums up in clumps and pot them to save in a cold frame for next year.

Next spring, you will probably find shoots extending in all directions as the plants expand. If the plant remains overcrowded, it will become too matted to produce quality flowers. Since the stems compete for light and nutrients, the plants tend to grow long and leggy even when clipped down.

Divide crowded plants

Carefully dig and cut off many underground stems. Each stolen will grow to a full-sized plant by fall. From each clump you can probably get anywhere from four to a dozen plants to share with a neighbor or grow in your flower beds. The cuttings will produce the best plants. The main plant loses its vigor and produces smaller and fewer blooms after one year. Some gardeners throw away the main plant after taking cuttings to start new plants.

Plant chrysanthemums in full sun one to two feet apart. They can be left in place and will be much larger and showier the following year. Chrysanthemums like well-drained soil with plenty of organic matter. They do best in full sun although they do not overwinter well on the south or west sides of buildings.

Mums are tolerant to a wide range of soils, but thrive in soil that has been thoroughly cultivated and enriched with organic material such as compost, leaves or cow manure. Either place the plants directly in the flower bed, or put them in a row somewhere in the back garden. They can be successfully moved when they bloom or are ready to bloom provided they are watered in well when they are transplanted.

During the summer, when they are six to eight inches tall, nourish them with a complete fertilizer. Even garden chrysanthemums can become tall and lanky and may bloom prematurely and less attractively without proper care. To make the plants bushier with more blossoms, and to avoid having to stake the plants, pinch or shear off the tops beginning when they are about six inches tall and repeat the process every time the stems grow six to eight inches until about the fourth of July. This will force the plant to put out new branches and delay blossoming until the weather and day length are more appropriate for good blossoming.

The plants experience relatively few problems. Occasionally, in late summer, spider mites or aphids may attack them. Control them with insecticides or insecticidal soap if needed.

To help flowers last longer, make sure they are adequately watered and protect them from excessive winds.

Watch for white flies and spittlebugs early in the season. Orthene or thiodan will control either.

Tips for the week

• Rake leaves off the lawn and put them on the garden where they can do some good. The grass will do better under winter snows without that coat of leaves over it, and leaves make a wonderful garden soil amendment.

• Take drip system hoses and plastic mulches off the garden and store them until next season.

• Clean out flower beds to allow for an earlier garden next spring. Clip back perennials that have died back.